Get Out!
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by
Barb Larime, Neal Foster & Alex Challis
Some of our society members grow their orchids outside during the summer months,
and discussed these techniques at our March meetimg. Growing orchids outdoors takes
advantage of the climate to give the palnts a boost in growing. Outdoor growing areas
vary form hanging orchids in trees to special structures for the orchids.
Alex Challis: Vandas, Dendrobiums and other bright-light orchids are hung
from the branches of a redbud tree. They are put out in May when night temperatures
are 55°F, (about the same time as when you would plant tomatoes outside), but not
until the leaves come out to prevent sunburn. The orchids get some morning sun, but
are shaded by early afternoon. Orchids that prefer lower light are hung from trees
with deeper shade, some under a wisteria trellis. Smaller pots can be grouped together
in large cedar baskets. Plants mounted on slabs are hung on a piece of hardware cloth,
and hung under a lilac. Watering is done with a garden hose, the orchids in baskets
and on slabs may be misted every day, as long as they dry by early evening. Pests
may be a problem outdoors, Phalaenopsis and rabbits don't mix, but as long as the
plants are hanging, there has not been any problems with insects or slugs.
Glenn Lehr: Has built a lath house on wheels where he grows Cymbidiums and
Cattleyas, along with some Amarylis. The Cymbidiums can take full sun once they are
acclimated to it, but these do fine and bloom quite well under the lath. Closet shelving
is used for support, and allows air to circulate. Cymbidiums are brought inside in
October, Cattleyas earlier.
Laurie McCauley: Had a deck put on her house a few years ago, and puts orchids
outside on the deck beneath a white, row-cover fabric over a metal wire frame. This
provides around 30% shading, and also allows water through. Sow bugs are now a problem
as the wood has aged, where the fresh treated lumber was a deterrant to the sow bugs.
John Lewis: Grows his orchids in several locations. A picnic table with a
large umbrella holds a number of orchids, and receives morning sun. Around 175 orchids
are suspended from a four-wire clothes line with a shade-cloth covering. The set-up
is fairly shady - yet it is two times as bright his light set-up. Clothes pins are
used to keep the orchids from sliding ito each other. The shade cloth covers the
plants between 11:00 am and 3:00 pm, but is pulled back during the morning and evening
hours. Some of the orchids are on plastic crates on the ground - Cymbidiums, Phragmipediums,
and Laelias - and these get brighter light. Masdevallias are hung from a large rose
bush where they stay humid, and receive lower light.
Barb Larime: Has a screened porch and a patio with an overhead structure of
2 x 8's built for her orchid collection. Medium to large size plants are hung on
a lath structure, on poles or hooks, to keep them off the ground, protect them from
slugs and keep them from falling over in the wind. Small plants are arranged in trays
and are set on shelves. This protects them from falling over in the wind and keeps
moisture in the small pots more effectively. The Masdavallias are kept in the shade
of the house with a fan running on them all summer so that they don't overheat. Barb
found that once she started running a fan continuously on the Masdavallias they did
much better than in the past. When the weather has completely settled, the Phalaenopsis
and Paphiopedilums are put
on the screened in porch for the summer.
Duane Duman: The Dumans grow their orchids on a deck with a lath house attached
to one end. They originally built the deck for a clothes line, as they had little
level land available on their lot. The lath house was built as an afterthought for
the deck. The lath material used here (and Glenn's and Barb's set-ups) is commercially
available from most lumberyards, and provides approximately 50% shade. Some areas
of their lath house are warmer and brighter than others, so the orchids are adjusted
as needed. Pests are few, but they have found that squirrels like to eat Coelogyne
and Maxillarias.
There are several reasons for growing your orchids outside in the summer. Plants
grow better from the extra light available is available, higher humidity, better
air circulation and a greater day-night differential in the temperature.
Light is readily available, so sunburn is a possible problem. Put orchids out gradually
into brighter light over a two or three week period. If hanging orchids in trees,
make sure the leaves are out and providing some shade. Shade cloth can help to keep
the plants from burning. There is less concern of overheating, as natural air circulation
keeps the leaves cool. If the leaf temperature feels too hot, move the plant to a
shadier location. Also note that different trees produce differing amounts of shade.
Locusts and oaks provide a lighter shade, while maples give a deeper shade. Masdevallias
usually prefer a deeper shade, thin-leafed orchids like Lycastes and Zygopetalums
need a moderate shade, Cattleyas and Vandas like only a light shading, and Cymbidiums,
Dendrobiums and some Oncidiums can take almost full sun once they are acclimated.
Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums can burn easily, so be very careful with these types.
Watering is faster and easier. Hosing down plants can usually be done in a few minutes,
it doesn't matter if you get the water on other things, and rainfall is an excellent
source of water. Even if you miss a watering, the velamen on roots absorbs water
out of the air, especially with the morning dew. Most orchids can be watered every
two to three days, less often if it's been raining. Orchids that are out in the open
may be watered very early everyday if it is hot and sunny. Plants on a sheltered
porch may not dry out as fast because of the high level of shade and protection from
the wind, but also do not get rained on, so watch out for plants that are under eaves
and protected from the rain. Orchids like Vandas in baskets and those that are mounted
may be misted every day if desired.
Fertilize pretty much as you would normally, perhaps a little stronger as summer
growth may be more rampant than what you are used to indoors. An alternative is to
fertilize with a weak solution, but more frequently, perhaps with a fertilizer proportioner
attached to the hose. Cymbidiums can also have slow-release fertilizers added to
the growing media.
Temperature is not as controllable as it is indoors, so plants should not be taken
out until you are sure the frosts have passed. Around the middle to end of May is
usually fine, but watch for late cold spells. Cooler growers like Cymbidiums and
Masdevallias can go out early, as soon as night temperatures are at least 45°F or
so. The Cattleyas, Dendrobiums and Oncidiums are the next to go outside. Warm growers
like Phalaenopsis are brought out last, when night temperatures get into the 60's.
Occasional drops in temperature are to be expected, and will do no harm once the
plant has been out for several weeks.
If you need any items (plug, plug) for growing your orchids outdoors, the AAOS Store
has many things you may find helpful. These include single and double pot hangers
for both clay and plastic pots, S-hooks for those higher spots, and cedar baskets
for Vandaceous genera and smaller orchids. We will have these at the May meeting,
or call Alex at 971-6186 to get them at other times.
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